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Old China Hands Archives Newsletter, Volume 2, Number 1

Dr. Robert GohstandTo Old China Hands, living as they did so far from their original homes, the traditional holidays were very important and enthusiastically celebrated. Furthermore, the cosmopolitan environment of Shanghai encouraged observance of some holidays which could be considered universal.  Christmas was one such.

I was about thirteen and a half years old when my family and I boarded the General M. C. Meigs to sail to San Francisco, but some memories of events and holidays have lingered.  My father was the proprietor of St. George’s Pharmacy at 1599 Bubbling Well Road in the International Settlement. That section of the road, running between Hart Road and the St. George’s tramway terminus, was particularly interesting and lively. Along the way was a large cemetery for foreigners, while beyond that, if memory serves, was the Bubbling Well itself—a large square enclosure with a low wall and malodorous water at the bottom.  It was a popular gathering and street-vending spot.  Just opposite was the entrance to the Bubbling Well Temple, always crowded with worshipers and the air of which carried the unforgettable scent of joss sticks.

But these were fixed elements of our neighborhood.  Our block was also the site of two particularly well-known periodic markets or fairs. There was the basket fair, where the sidewalks were crowded with vendors of every possible woven thing: baskets of all types and sizes, but also rattan furniture and the like.  People came to buy from far and wide and there were plenty of vendors of all kinds of food and tucks (snacks).  It was noisy, crowded, and exciting.

The second market fair of the year was of Christmas trees.  My family always celebrated this holiday, with guests, food, gifts, and a decorated tree.  And some time before the holiday, our street was magically chock-a-block with Christmas trees, seemingly of every size and species.  The piney scent was delightful, and my elder sister and I were in charge of roaming up and down the block in search of the perfect tree, which, once found and purchased was dragged through the pharmacy door and up the stairs to the living quarters over the store.

In preparation for the holiday, my father would also make and stock items for people to buy as gifts.  One very popular item we helped our dad make was bath salts, tinted in various colors and put up in fancy glass jars.  The stock of cosmetics and perfumes was also enlarged.  I still remember one popular brand of perfume: Soir de Paris, or Evening in Paris.  For men, there was 4711 cologne, after-shave and assortments of shaving soaps, mugs, and brushes.  4711, pronounced four-seven-eleven, is a venerable product, the original "cologne," invented by monks of that city before the Napoleonic era and drawing its name from the monastery’s address.  It is still available, as beautifully labelled as 75 years ago, through Amazon.  Soir de Paris, which, I am informed, was launched in 1928, in its distinctive midnight blue packaging, also still exists, but Amazon now wants $106 for 1.7 ounces!  I’m sure that it was cheaper in the 1940s!  The pharmacy’s front windows would also be redecorated with a holiday theme, put together by a professional window dresser (yes, that used to be a profession—is it still?  Perhaps.)

The Old China Hands Archives wishes all the readers of our newsletter a safe and kindly Thanksgiving and Happy Christmas and Hannukah.

Robert Gohstand
November 2021

Chinese Eastern Railway ticket
Cognac bottlers
Matchbook covers
Catholic school class photograph, 1938
Prescription from Dr. Carl E. Mosse M.D. in Shanghai
Civilian internee armband, ca. 1942

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